The 2009 Châteauneuf Du Pape Reserve Des Celestins is certainly mature, yet it still has at least another decade of prime drinking followed by a gradual decline thereafter. A semi-opaque ruby hue with just a kiss of bricking at the rim, it has an essence of Provence-like perfume of sweet black cherries, roasted garrigue, licorice, and herbes de Provence. With full-bodied richness, a supple, layered, seamless mouthfeel, integrated tannins, and beautiful overall balance, it's not in the massive, concentrated style of the 2010 and shows the sun-kissed, complex, incredibly seductive style of the 2009 vintage beautifully. I followed this bottle over the course of an evening, and it needs about an hour of air to show at its best. Drink: 2025-2039.

Opaque ruby. Blackberry, blueberry and bitter chocolate on the explosively perfumed nose. Quite supple on entry, then densely packed and chewy in the mid-palate, lending noteworthy energy to the black and blue fruit flavors. Plenty of lively acidity here as well. Broadens out impressively on the back end, finishing with velvety tannins and superb persistence.

Tasted from bottle include the 2009 Châteauneuf du Pape Reserve des Célestins, which was purchased stateside. It’s about as Provençal as they come and garrigue, kirsch liqueur, cured meats, saddle leather and licorice notes literally soar from this ruby-colored, full-bodied, sexy, heady Châteauneuf du Pape that has tons of glycerin and fat, sweet tannin and a great finish. Reminding me of a lighter weight 1990 with its sunny, sexy personality, it’s already hard to resist and should continue drinking nicely for 15+ years.