The 2022 Haut-Marbuzet has a tightly wound, slightly reticent bouquet that unfolds with blackberry and melted tar. The palate is medium-bodied with liquorice-tinged black fruit, solid and a little chewy on the finish. A bit out of sorts, I will not score based on this example. Tasted blind at the Southwold tasting in London.

Don’t be put off by the wood spices, which are still a bit prominent. This is built for the long haul, with impressive depth and complexity. Spiced berries, white pepper, hibiscus and touches of cedar, chocolate and minerals. The highlight is the tannin, both in its dusty quality and huge quantity, delivering structure, polish and precision. Really caressing and long in the finish, which lasts almost a minute. Such a smart buy for the vintage. Drink from 2026 and for the next 10 to 15 years.

As usual, this estate crafted another sensual, delicate wine in a region where power and austerity are often the norm. The 2022 Haut-Marbuzet reveals an elegant, seductive bouquet of licorice, dark berries, cherries and flowers mingled with barely noticeable oak. Medium to full-bodied, seamless and layered, it's enveloping with a fleshy core of fruit, velvety tannins and a long, mineral, almost saline finish. It's a blend of 50% Merlot, 45% Cabernet Sauvignon, 3% Cabernet Franc and 2% Petit Verdot.