PETRUS 2003

($1; 500-$2,000) Deep, healthy red-ruby color. Multidimensional aromas of mulberry, plum, smoked meat, leather and mocha are at once vibrant and slightly wild. Then sweet, densely packed and powerful, and showing little or no sign of the excesses of the vintage. This has a wonderfully tactile texture and great breadth on the back end. The tannins are sweet but firm and serious, giving the wine outstanding grip-even a touch of youthful austerity-for a 2003 from the right bank. This really coats the mouth. I'd keep my hands off this wine for at least seven or eight years.

An early September harvest in this hot year produced a 2003 that has reached full maturity. It offers notes of roasted coffee, melted chocolate, figs and black cherry jam. There are some rustic tannins in the finish, but this expansive, rich Petrus displays far more intensity and complexity than most expected given the difficulties in Pomerol in 2003. It should be consumed over the next 4-6 years.