Red and black fruits, graphite, spicy wood, chocolate, and truffle all define the 2017 Château Valandraud, a sensational Saint-Emilion in this vintage, which is often overlooked. Full-bodied and concentrated on the palate, with a pure, layered, balanced mouthfeel and outstanding length, this brilliant effort deserves 4-5 years of cellaring and is going to put a smile on your face for at least two decades or more. Drink 2030-2047.

This is ablaze with cassis, cherry preserve and blueberry reduction flavors that ripple with energy, inlaid with graphite, anise and Lapsang souchong tea notes. The long finish displays a luxurious feel, with a subtle underlay of chalky minerality. Merlot, Cabernet Franc and Cabernet Sauvignon.

The 2017 Valandraud was 30% impacted by the frost on the lower reaches of vines, which were either deselected into the troisième vin or sold off. The wine was picked from 10 October and then sporadically over the next week, relatively late. It is matured in 100% new oak as usual. It has a very intense, voluptuous bouquet with layers of crème de cassis, boysenberry and blueberry fruit, a little glossier than I was anticipating, what you might call a “ravishing” nose. The palate is full-bodied with saturated tannin, rounded in texture with layers of black cherry, blueberry and cassis fruit. This is a bold Valandraud that shrugs off the effects of the frost and goes full-throttle towards the finish whilst maintaining sufficient freshness and tension that it never palls in the mouth.

The deep garnet-purple colored 2017 Valandraud gives up crushed blackcurrants, chocolate-covered cherries and espresso on the nose with hints of licorice, tar and smoked meats. The palate is medium-bodied with a solid frame of ripe, sweet tannins and just enough freshness to contain the bombastic fruit, finishing long and berry-laced.