Domaine Huet Le Mont Sec 2023

The 2023 Vouvray Sec Le Mont is certainly one of the highlights of the range in the 2023 vintage and offers spectacular precision and focus. In the glass, it pours a reflective straw/silver color and is more coiled, leading with a bit of flinty reduction before revealing notes of lime leaf, green apples, white flowers, and honey. On the palate, it has more linear drive, but that’s matched by compact density, crystalline purity, and a fantastic long and mouthwatering finish. A superb wine, it’s going to benefit from another few years in cellar. Drink 2026-2038. It’s a refreshing departure from my regular coverage to review the new releases from the historic Domaine Huet in the Loire Valley. I have long been a fan of these wines and was especially fond of working with them in my days as a restaurant wine director, as the estate’s incredibly versatile range of wines presents endless pairing opportunities. This holds especially true for their Demi-Sec offerings, which were a secret weapon for challenging savory dishes with a kiss of spice, where other options, such as Riesling, could potentially dominate and overpower the dish. I routinely used the Vouvray Moelleux Le Mont on our tasting menu to accompany various preparations of foie gras terrines, which often had splashes of brighter accents such as pink peppercorn, rhubarb, or summer peaches. It was a great way to play into the classic pairing of Sauternes, without the wine being too weighted and cloying with sweetness, especially as this was usually the second course in a multi-course menu. It also did exceptionally well when paired with not-too-sweet desserts, such as tangy fruit tarts. The new releases from 2023 do not disappoint.

The 2023 Vouvray Sec Le Mont is precise, upright and flinty. It's less immediately charming than the styles we've seen in recent warmer vintages, but it was only tasted three weeks after bottling—this is one to revisit. There's just the right amount of juicy, peachy flesh within this light-bodied yet concentrated wine. It has the potential to charm but does so without showing off. Flinty and tightly sewn together, it has curves in the right places, but you're just going to have to wait for it to take shape.