Domaine Alain Voge Les Vieilles Vignes 2023

Coming from a mix of older vines, the 2023 Cornas Vieilles Vignes was 85% destemmed and brought up mostly in used barrels, with just 10% being new. Classic Cornas aromatics of cassis, violets, flowery incense, orange, and subtle bouquet garni notes all shine here, and it's medium to full-bodied, with a pure, silky mouthfeel, terrific balance, and a great finish. Today, the talented Lionel Fraisse leads this terrific domaine, having taken over from Albéric Mazoyer in 2018, and he continues to make richly textured, incredibly impressive wines. Looking at the whites, the flagship Fleur de Crussol was first created in 1999 as a collaboration between Alain Voge and Lyon's sommelier Daniel Denis. It comes from some of the oldest vines in the appellation and a mix of both granite and limestone soils. It always shows its oak élevage right on release and benefits from bottle age. The Saint-Péray Cuvée Boisée was first released in 1984 but was renamed Cuvée Ongrie in 2015. It, too, is 100% Marsanne (from 50-year-old vines and slightly more clay soils) and is raised in a mix of 228- and 400-liter barrels, with roughly 15-20% being new today. As with the Fleur de Crussol, it sees lots of lees contact and benefits from bottle age. Lastly, the Saint-Péray Harmonie was first created in 2001, and it comes from a handful of sites and is raised all in concrete tanks. You can think of this as the entry-level white from the estate, and it has always had a fresh, textbook Saint-Péray style. Moving to the reds, all of the Cornas from this estate are beautiful wines. The Cornas Les Chailles was first created in 2003 and comes from a mix of the Combe, Les Saveaux, Cayret, Les Mazards, Chaillot, and Chapuzes lieux-dits, mostly on the lower slopes of the appellation. It's completely destemmed and raised in used oak. This can be thought of as the entry-level wine of the domaine, and while it drinks well right out of the gate, it normally benefits from a few years in the cellar. A newer cuvée, the Cornas Chapelle Saint Pierre, comes from higher elevation vines planted in 1999 (the lieu-dit is Saint-Pierre). These grapes previously went into the Vieilles Vignes release, yet due to their singular profile, the estate opted to create a new cuvée. This is mostly destemmed and aged all in used 228-liter barrels. The Cornas Vieilles Vignes comes from vines averaging 30 to 80 years in age and is mostly destemmed, with the élevage in a mix of larger barrels, about 10-20% being new. This is a classic, concentrated Cornas that offers loads of fruit and richness without going over the top. Most top vintages need 4-5 years of bottle age and have two decades of prime drinking. Lastly, and only in top vintages, they'll release the Cornas Vieilles Fontaines. First produced in 1988, the cuvée comes from a parcel of very old vines in the La Fontaine section of the Les Côtes lieu-dit. It's partially destemmed (around 70%) and is raised 24 months in 15-20% new French oak barrels (228-liter). It's always the most powerful, full-bodied, and opulent of the lineup and needs a solid 4-6 years to shed its youthful baby fat and round into a classic Cornas.

The promising 2023 Cornas Les Vieilles Vignes carries the potential to outperform the 2022 I tasted side by side. Savory and intricate, the 2023 emerges with ripe black cherry, fresh violet, graphite and stemmy nuances as well as a touch of licorice. Stacked with marked flavor concentration and neatly balanced through bright acidity, the 2023 checks out with substantial freshness.

The 2023 Cornas Vieilles Vignes, sourced from 60- to 70-year-old vines across lieux-dits such as Combe, Patou, Reynard, Mazards and Chaillot, was vinified with around 20% whole clusters and matured with approximately 20% new oak. It reveals a complex bouquet of spices, fresh licorice, dark berries and blackberry. Medium- to full-bodied, dense and layered, it’s velvety and structured, underpinned by the bright acidity characteristic of the 2023 vintage. Framed by elegant, structuring tannins, it combines depth with a sense of accessibility, concluding with a long, ethereal finish.