MONTROSE 2011

(63% cabernet sauvignon; 22% merlot, 12% cabernet franc and 3% petit verdot): Deep ruby-purple. Mineral notes complicate scents of fresh blackcurrant and cedar. Dense and pure on entry, then almost austere in the middle, showing very refined flavors of crystallized blackcurrant and juicy blackberry. Finishes with rising, noble tannins and a minty edge. Only 44% of total production (rather than normal 65%) went into the grand vin because the cabernets didn't produce as much. Note that since 2007 more of the estate's cabernet franc and petit verdot are going into the flagship wine; in fact, Glumineau plans to remove some merlot and add more cabernet franc.

Somewhat lost in the shadow of the 2010 and 2009 duo, the 2011 Montrose is a somewhat firm, old-school wine, but it has plenty of depth and character and represents a good value for readers prepared to be patient. Unwinding in the glass with aromas of cassis, sweet berries, plums and licorice complemented by hints of loamy soil, it's medium to full-bodied, layered and muscular, with good depth at the core and a long, structured finish.