PETRUS 2016

One of the top wines in the vintage is unquestionably the 2016 Chateau Petrus, which is, as always, all Merlot aged in just over half new French oak. It's more reserved and subtle compared to the 2015, yet it’s unquestionably in the same ballpark, offering a deep ruby/purple color as well as a classy bouquet of crème de cassis, black cherries, graphite, smoke tobacco, spring flowers, and subtle spicy oak. This is a wine that builds with time in the glass and delivers a full-bodied, multi-dimensional texture, present, ripe tannins, perfect balance, and a finish that won't quit. It’s haute couture at its finest, and as I wrote multiple times in my notes, simply pure class. Hide bottles for at least 7-8 years (10-15 would be even better) and it will keep for half a century.

There are both lush and structured elements working here, with velvety cassis, raspberry puree and plum compote notes intertwined with tobacco, alder and cocoa accents. This pulls together steadily through the finish, showing superb focus and a tight-grained feel, while fresh acidity imparts rippling energy. The raspberry note hangs longest through the finish. Best from 2022 through 2038.

The 2016 Petrus was bottled at the end of July – a little late, according to Oliver Berrouet – although it was taken out of barrel at the end of May and finished in stainless steel tank for the final few weeks. Berrouet feels that this vintage found its place during the barrel maturation, opining that its complexity and fruité make it one of the great Petrus. It has a drop-dead gorgeous bouquet offering pure black cherries, bilberry and violet and displaying impressive depth, but it takes 15 to 20 minutes to bloom. The palate is fresh on the entry, with filigreed tannin framing pure black fruit laced with spice and a hint of white pepper, and perhaps a little less extrovert than some recent vintages. The satiny texture is stunning: there’s not a hair out of place. Gains more depth toward the beautifully poised finish. A magnificent Petrus that is up there with the greats. 14.5% alcohol.

Graphite, cedar, mushrooms and dark fruit on the nose. The palate shows ethereal elegance, with fruit concentration that dissipates gracefully, while the tannins integrate seamlessly toward the finish. Exceptional. Open, with an elegant, subdued structure. Drink now or hold. 10 Years On retrospective.

Opaque purple-black colored, the 2016 Petrus slips effortlessly out of the glass with sanguine, seductive notes of kirsch, warm black plums, blueberry compote, red roses, Ceylon tea, violets, dark chocolate-covered cherries, licorice and cinnamon stick with wafts of iron ore, pencil lead, unsmoked cigars and crushed rocks. Full-bodied, profound and absolutely edifying on the palate, the densely packed, beautifully perfumed red and blue fruit layers possess a charge like defibrillators stimulating your heart to beat faster, each delivering achingly subtle floral and spice sparks, perfectly framed by very firm, very grainy tannins and bold freshness, finishing with incredible length and taking you to depths that extend to a provocative ferrous undercurrent. Stunning.