CALON SEGUR 2023

Checking in as a blend of 69% Cabernet Sauvignon, 29% Merlot, 1% Cabernet Franc, and 1% Petit Verdot aged 18 months in 60% new oak, the 2023 Château Calon Ségur is a big, fleshy, opulent style of Calon that shows the riper side of the vintage. Its deep purple hue is followed by black and blue fruits, smoky tobacco, loamy earth, and graphite on the nose. Medium to full-bodied on the palate, it has ripe, round tannins and considerable baby fat at this stage, which is rare for a 2023. Give bottles 4-5 years to gain some harmony and elegance, and it should see its 30th birthday in fine form. Drink 2030-2053.

Dark and winey, with a reserved persona as warmed plum sauce and cassis notes move slowly, showing flashes of alder smoke and black tea throughout. The finish offers admirable grip in the form of cast iron buried amid the fruit, letting this keep a polished and suave feel overall. Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Cabernet Franc and Petit Verdot. Best from 2027 through 2040.

The 2023 Calon Ségur was picked September 6 to 30 at 45hL/ha. As usual, it is being aged entirely in new oak for a planned 20 months. It has a tight, cohesive bouquet of predominantly black fruit intermixed with wild hedgerow, tobacco and melted tar. The palate is medium-bodied with impressive grip on the entry—quite fresh, with a subtle marine tincture and a touch of Japanese nori in the background. It gently fans out on the finish, but it remains controlled and especially linear for Calon-Ségur, perhaps less swayed by the Merlot (15% of the blend). Classy.

Intense, perfumed aromas of graphite, blackberries, blueberries and stones follow through to a medium body with dried spices, tobacco, dried flowers and thyme. Typical on the palate as well. Structured and linear, with super length and tension. 72% cabernet sauvignon, 15% merlot, 12% cabernet franc and 1% petit verdot. Give this four or five years. Try after 2029.

The 2023 Calon-Ségur is another en primeur success for this resurgent Saint-Estèphe third growth. Wafting from the glass with aromas of cassis, pencil shavings, wild berries and plums, it's medium to full-bodied, cool and layered, with a deep and integrated core, terrific concentration, lively acids and refined structuring tannins, concluding with a long, penetrating finish. It's a blend of 72% Cabernet Sauvignon, 15% Merlot, 12% Cabernet Franc and 1% Petit Verdot that checks in at 14% alcohol.