A striking wine, the 2004 Barolo Sarmassa, one of two Barolos Voerzio bottles only in magnums, provides a fascinating contrast to the much more virile, imposing Vecchie Viti dei Capalot e delle Brunate. Here the textures are silky, while the flavor profile is distinctly more floral. The Sarmassa is also typically a bit brighter, but the 2004 plays on darker tonalities of red fruit, with exotic spiced overtones and a bit more power than is the norm.

As hard as it is to believe, the 2004 Barolo Sarmassa is even better than the Cerequio. It opens with compelling, seductive aromatics that lead to an array of perfumed plums, prunes and sweet red cherries in liqueur. Blessed with superb detail and delineation, this profound Barolo offers exceptional clarity, precision and endless layers of flavor, all framed by silky, perfectly ripe tannins that provide balance. This wine has always been stunning from barrel and cask, and it is equally breathtaking in bottle. Anticipated maturity: 2014-2024. Importer: Winebow, Hohokus, NJ; tel. (201) 445-0620