The 2023 Chablis Fôret 1er Cru has a well-defined bouquet with apple blossom, orange pith and light crushed stone scents. This has lovely focus and control. The palate is well balanced with admirable weight and tension. This is not a powerful Forêt by any means, but there is energy here and a persistent finish. Tasted blind at the BIVB offices in Chablis.

Vinified in a combination of used oak (30%) and stainless steel, the 2023 Chablis 1er Cru Forêts is one of the highlights from Moreau-Naudet’s portfolio this year, beautifully exemplifying the classical Chablisien character. Wafting from the glass with a deep bouquet of beeswax, orange zest and pear, mingling with oyster shell, it’s medium to full-bodied, layered and tense, with vibrant acidity and excellent cut. It concludes with a pure, chalky finish. Virginie Moreau admits that in recent years she has given a slight preference to Forêts over the expressiveness of Vaillons. Readers will be able to make their own conclusions, as both wines come warmly recommended.