Utter perfection in red wine, the 2019 Côte Rôtie Belle Helene comes from the Côte Rozier lieu-dit (just above La Landonne) and is not destemmed and brought up mostly in used barrels. In contrast to the more aromatic, finesse-driven Lancement, this is more powerful and masculine and has soaring aromatics of cassis, black raspberries, smoked meat, iron, graphite, and chocolate. Perhaps similar in style to the 2010 (or a mix of 2009 and 2010), its full-bodied, concentrated, and multi-dimensional on the palate, with building tannins and a monster of a mid-palate. It's an utterly brilliant, legendary Côte Rôtie that will evolve for three decades. It should hit prime time in 7-8 years.

Inky ruby. Intensely perfumed aromas of cassis, blackberry, cola and licorice are complemented by a smoky mineral top note and hints of pungent flowers and incense. Chewy and subtly sweet, offering deeply concentrated dark berry preserve, licorice pastille, olive paste and fruitcake flavors that show noteworthy energy and back-end thrust. Finishes extremely long and smoky, with building tannins and reverberating floral and spice notes. Sourced from very old vines in Rozier and made with all whole clusters.

Another superlative effort, Ogier's 2019 Cote Rotie La Belle Helene—a selection from the lieu-dit of Côte Rozier—boasts slightly lifted, herbal nuances on the nose, followed by masses of blackberry and blueberry fruit. Full-bodied, powerful, rich and creamy textured, it might be a tiny bit less complex than the La Cote Blonde but is still tightly impressive.