I continue to love the 2008 Château Latour, unquestionably in the top handful of wines in the vintage. A rich, powerful blend of 94% Cabernet Sauvignon, 5% Merlot, and the rest Cabernet Franc, this ruby/purple-hued beauty boasts a classic Latour nose of blackcurrants, spice box, saddle leather, tobacco leaf, and cedar pencil. Deep, medium to full-bodied, and perfectly balanced, give it another 2-3 years, count yourself lucky, and enjoy bottles over the following 2-3 decades.

(94% cabernet sauvignon, 5% merlot, and 1% cabernet franc and petit verdot; the selection for the grand vin was just 40% of total production) Opaque ruby-purple. Very intense, pure aromas of blackcurrant, cedar and graphite are complicated by hints of balsamic vinegar and licorice. Enters the mouth quite full, with the middle palate displaying rich flavors of blackcurrant, blackberry syrup and minerals. A beautiful and very precise version of Latour with impeccable balance and deceptive power. The harmonious acids extend the fruit and herbal flavors impressively on the very long, clean finish. This year's high proportion of cabernet sauvignon is a record for Latour (though '07 and '06 were nearly as high). Estate manager Frederic Engerer told me that he and his team tasted the various single-parcel lots over and over, and even though they felt the quality of some of the old-vine merlot was excellent, they didn't like the way it jelled with the cabernet sauvignon, and thus the merlot went into Les Forts de Latour. Along with Leoville-Las Cases and Haut Brion, Latour is an early candidate for wine of the vintage, and one of the three best wines of the Left Bank in '08.

Composed of 94% Cabernet Sauvignon, 5% Merlot, 0.75% Cabernet Franc and 0.25% Petit Verdot, the 2008 Latour gives a medium to deep garnet color and slips sensuously out of the glass with Chinese five spice, unsmoked cigars, sandalwood and dried roses scents over a core of warm cassis, Black Forest cake, chocolate mint and smoked meats plus a waft of black olives and garrigue. Medium to full-bodied, the palate is well-sustained in the middle with generous black fruits and lovely red fruit sparks, layered with savory nuances and a firm, grainy backbone, finishing with bags of perfume and freshness.