A classic Le Pin in its exuberant, kinky, sexy, almost over-ripe style, the 2019 Château Le Pin offers a monster nose of black cherry liqueur, red plums, tobacco leaf, mocha, orange peel, and violets. Truly exotic and one of a kind, it hits the palate with a powerful, full-bodied, opulent yet seamless mouthfeel that carries ample tannic grip, a deep, layered mid-palate, and a great finish. It has some elevated volatile acidity and won't be for everyone, but this exotic, dry port-like Merlot needs a good 5-7 years of bottle age and will drink well for 20-25 years.

The 2019 Le Pin is a Pomerol that I did not taste out of barrel when samples were being sent, so the first time I encountered it was with Jacques Thienpont in his office, together with his new right hand, Diana Berrouet-Garcia. It has a fragrant nose of brambly red fruit, touches of sous-bois and hints of dark chocolate emerging with time in the glass. The palate is medium-bodied with pliant tannins, moderate weight and a touch of black pepper and clove, the former becoming more prominent toward the finish. Cohesive throughout; perhaps the alcohol (14.7°) blurs a little of the definition, but this still feels reassuringly long and sensual. Gorgeous.

The 2019 Le Pin is a rich, expansive wine that soars from the glass with aromas of raspberry preserve, plums, wild berries, rose petals and licorice, framed by a deftly judged patina of creamy new oak. Full-bodied, supple and velvety, it's broad and enveloping, with a fleshy core of fruit that's framed by lively acids and powdery tannins, concluding with a long, aromatic finish. Rich in gravel on the surface, Le Pin's vines are rooted in clay, which no doubt helps to explain how this wine can perform so well in warm, dry vintages. As is the norm these days, the 2019 was matured in 70% new oak.