Domaine de la Mordorée Mordorée Reine des Bois 2006

A deep, brooding ’06 that will compete with anything from the vintage, the 2006 Domaine de la Mordorée Châteauneuf-du-Pape Cuvée de la Reine des Bois delivers an inky, black color to go with aromas of smoked plum, blackberry, black chocolate, licorice, and truffle on the nose. While lacking complexity at the moment and showing primarily dark, dense fruit, this has fantastic intensity and focus, as well as solid purity of fruit. On the palate, the wine is full-bodied and beautifully balanced, possessing a thick, rich texture, serious concentration, and a classically styled, long and mineral driven finish. Give bottle another 2-4 years and then drink over the following decade.

Very juicy, but sleek and racy, with a big core of warm, crushed fig and plum fruit layered with mocha, black licorice, Turkish coffee and graphite. The long, dark finish is nicely packed for the vintage. Drink now through 2023

Glass-staining purple. Sexy aromas of red and dark berry preserves, incense and garrigue, with complicating cola and mineral qualities. Round and deeply concentrated, offering lush black raspberry, cherry-cola and candied lavender flavors and gently bracing acidity. The sweet, vibrant berry flavors cling impressively.

Delorme’s 2006 Chateauneuf du Pape Cuvee la Reine des Bois is up with the top eight to ten wines of the vintage. Made from 80% Grenache then smaller amounts of Mourvèdre, Vaccarèse, Syrah and Counoise—all from the famed la Crau lieu-dit—it reveals an inky ruby color as well as sexy, youthful notes of barbecue smoke, black currants, licorice, toasted spice and graphite. Reminiscent of the estate's terrific 2000 Cuvee de la Reine des Bois, this full-bodied, concentrated and layered beauty has plenty of tannin, terrific purity and a big finish. It will drink nicely for another decade.