The 1960 Rivesaltes has a deep burnished amber colour. It has an attractive bouquet of walnut, marmalade, nutmeg and light smoky aromas that perhaps would benefit from a little more definition. The palate is well balanced with tangy marmalade, dried honey, molasses, orange rind and a touch of Chinese 5-spice. I love the palate probably more than the aromatics, but at least there is commendable freshness on the finish that beckons you back for another sip. Tasted with Philippe Gayral.

The 1960 Rivesaltes has a lucid tawny hue, slightly deeper in color than vins doux naturels of similar age. It has a compelling bouquet with marmalade, allspice, cloves and a slight peatiness perhaps coming from its proximity to the coast. The palate is fresh and vibrant, with just the right amount of viscosity, beautifully poised with shimmering notes of orange zest, allspice, lemongrass and quince. The detail here is stupendous, and the finish almost clinical in its precision. It is one of the finest vins doux naturels that I have tasted from Philippe Gayral. Tasted June 2017.