Domaine Huet Le Clos du Bourg Sec 2023

More savory and reserved on the nose, the 2023 Vouvray Sec Clos Du Bourg pours a shimmering straw hue and boasts some classic Chenin calling card notes of hay, crushed stones, and citrus pith. The palate is refreshing, but at this stage it feels a bit hollow through the mid-palate, with its charming and more pure pear-noted fruit hovering upfront and its lifted acidity following through on the finish. It likely will benefit from more time to harmonize and come together more completely as it fleshes out with some age. This site should be up there with the best offerings, but it’s difficult for me to see where this wine is going to land at this youthful stage. Drink 2025-2035. It’s a refreshing departure from my regular coverage to review the new releases from the historic Domaine Huet in the Loire Valley. I have long been a fan of these wines and was especially fond of working with them in my days as a restaurant wine director, as the estate’s incredibly versatile range of wines presents endless pairing opportunities. This holds especially true for their Demi-Sec offerings, which were a secret weapon for challenging savory dishes with a kiss of spice, where other options, such as Riesling, could potentially dominate and overpower the dish. I routinely used the Vouvray Moelleux Le Mont on our tasting menu to accompany various preparations of foie gras terrines, which often had splashes of brighter accents such as pink peppercorn, rhubarb, or summer peaches. It was a great way to play into the classic pairing of Sauternes, without the wine being too weighted and cloying with sweetness, especially as this was usually the second course in a multi-course menu. It also did exceptionally well when paired with not-too-sweet desserts, such as tangy fruit tarts. The new releases from 2023 do not disappoint.

The 2023 Vouvray Sec Clos du Bourg Sec is a bit muted at this stage, but this tasting is only three weeks after bottling. It's also closed on the palate and needs time to come around. This isn't where it ought to be. The concentration is there, and the classic amplitude and curves are there with a super line and frame, but it just needs to get over its bottle shock. I'm going to come back to this wine in a couple of months.