GRUAUD LAROSE 1988

The 1988 Gruaud Larose seems to have lost some of its fruit concentration since I last tasted it in 2011. At 30-years of age it has moderate wide bricking on the rim though the core remains quite deep in colour. The bouquet is fully mature with scents of sage, liquorish and allspice permeating the dark berry fruit; fleeting glimpses of black tea and bay leaf surfacing with continued aeration. The palate is medium-bodied with a tang of soy and marmalade on the entry. It is nicely balanced; a little rustic in style yet displays admirable depth and more freshness than some of its peers on the Left Bank. There is just that residual tobacco note lingering on the finish. If you like old school, traditional Saint Julien then this will suit you down to the ground. Tasted at the château.

The 1988 is probably a 30-year wine. Extremely hard and backward, but concentrated, long, and full-bodied, it reminded me of the 1975, only less savage. Let's hope the fruit holds up. Anticipated maturity: 2000-2025. Last tasted, 5/93.