LAGRANGE 1989

The 1989 Lagrange was picked from 6 to 28 September - the earliest ever. It has an attractive bouquet that needs some coaxing from the glass, scents of blackberry, pressed flowers, rooibos and bay leaf gradually unfurling. The palate is medium-bodied with grainy tannins. This is firmly into its secondary stage with ferrous-tinged red fruit, sage and thyme. It is quite a savoury Saint-Julien with good intensity and vigour on the finish. This has lasted very well over 30 years and should continue to give pleasure. Tasted at the Lagrange vertical at the estate.

This muscular, thick, unctuous, lavishly-oaked wine may cause raised eyebrows by those looking for something restrained and understated. There is no doubting the hedonistic appeal of this style of wine. The 1989 (the first bottle was corked) is a smoky, tar, cassis, roasted herb, jammy style of wine, with a dense purple color, sweet tannin, and low acidity. It is easy to drink, although the bouquet has not changed since I tasted it several years ago. The wine is soft and fat, but not flabby. It should drink well for 15+ years, probably developing more focus as well as a more classical profile. The 1989 Lagrange is a big, rich, boldly-flavored wine made in a California-like style.