Domaine de la Mordorée Mordorée Reine des Bois 2004

One of the top 2004s, the Domaine de la Mordorée Châteauneuf-du-Pape Cuvée de la Reine des Bois is very unique with a dark fruit and coffee slant to the nose. Medium bodied with beautiful structure and a long finish.

Inky black ruby color. Powerfully ripe and large-scaled on the nose, with intense aromas of blackberry, cassis, candied licorice, black pepper and exotic Asian spices. Big, thick and dense on the palate, showing highly concentrated flavors of dark cherry, creme de cassis, roasted coffee, tapenade and ground clove. This has remarkable intensity on the back end and today the substantial tannins are utterly buried by the sheer sweetness of fruit.

Another wine that checks in near the top of the vintage, the 2004 Chateauneuf du Pape Cuvee de La Reine des Bois is still a baby, with medium to full-bodied richness, fine tannin and loads of blackcurrant, lead pencil, licorice and spice-driven aromas and flavors. Give it another couple of years and drink it through 2024. As I wrote in the intro for this domaine last year, Domaine de la Mordoree is a reference point estate for Chateauneuf du Pape. Run by the talented brother duo of Fabrice and Christophe Delorme, with Christophe making the wines, they produce a relatively modern-styled Chateauneuf, as well as more than noteworthy Liracs and Tavels. For this tasting at the domaine (I was also able to taste through this full lineup again, from bottles in the U.S.), we started with the older vintages and worked toward the more current releases. In addition to their Reine des Bois cuvee, the Delorme brothers also release a special cuvee call the Cuvee de la Plume du Peintre. It’s made only in top vintages, and, as of today, it’s only been made in 2003 and 2005. There’s a scant 150 cases of each. Coming from a plot of 80-year-old vines located in the famed La Crau lieu-dit, the blend has changed between the two releases, as has the elevage. Importer: Fran Kysela, Kysela Pere et Fils, Winchester, VA; tel. (540) 722-9228; fax (540) 722-9258