YQUEM 2004

Pierre Lurton, the manager of Yquem as well as Cheval-Blanc, told me that he really wanted to mark his arrival at the legendary estate, so he went to draconian lengths to deliver something superb in 2004 (he reduced the crop by half, so probably less than 75,000 bottles will be produced). This shows wonderful aromas of pineapples, apples and lemons with loads of botrytis. Full-bodied, but incredibly refined and long. Superfresh and racy. It goes on and on and on. Fabulous. This has an incredible purity and brightness. Like a perfectly cut diamond. 95-100.

The 2004 Yquem is almost identical to the bottle that I tasted at the château four years ago. It has a generous bouquet; the oak a tad more subsumed since my last encounter, with generous lemon curd, dried honey, mango and Mirabelle aromas billowing from the glass. It is a well balanced and quite weighty Yquem with slightly lower acidity than its peers; viscous in texture with a tropical tinged finish that I maintain just lacks the tension and energy of a Yquem from the top-drawer.

The 2004 d'Yquem is initially a little disjointed on the nose. It does meld together with aeration, but it never attains the complexity or nuance of a top-flight Yquem. Hints of white chocolate and clear honey emerge with time however; it needs to demonstrate more hubris and ambition. The palate is nicely balanced with a fine line of acidity with a noticeable citric edge. Perhaps this Yquem is amidst a broody spell, for here the likes of de Fargues and Suduiraut appear to offer more spark and more pizzazz. It would not surprise me if this has more to offer in several years' time. Drink 2018-2030+. Tasted February 2014.