The 2023 Chablis Valmur Grand Cru has an understated nose that bides its time. I want this to give more, but it steadfastly refuses! The palate is much more expressive, with a fine bead of acidity and orchard fruit mixed with hints of chamomile and white tea. This finishes with precision and a slightly oily texture. I believe the aromatics were just closed on the day. Cellar this away for three to four years because I think a fine Valmur will manifest with time. Tasted blind at the BIVB offices in Chablis.

Derived from 60-year-old vines growing on a rather steep slope and vinified entirely in stainless steel, the 2023 Chablis Grand Cru Valmur is flamboyant, soaring from the glass with a deep bouquet of beeswax, grapefruit zest and pear. On the palate, it’s full-bodied, concentrated and layered, with more mid-palate amplitude than any other wine in the range, supported by vibrant acidity and concluding with a long, saline finish. It comes from a parcel just next to Raveneau’s, and like that example, it rewards patience.