An absolutely legendary wine that ranks with the handful of truly monumental wines of the past 100 years or so is the 2009 Château La Mission Haut-Brion, which is close to an even split of Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot with a splash (6%) of Cabernet Franc. This beauty hit over 15% alcohol and should be a nail in the coffin to all the anti-alcohol fear mongering that has gone over the past 10-15 years. Still youthfully ruby-hued, with incredible notes of ripe currants, mulled cherries, scorched earth, tobacco, and even a hint of truffly earth, it hits the palate with full-bodied richness, a layered, seamless, multi-dimensional mouthfeel, ripe tannins, and a finish that just won't quit. Opulent, decadent, yet without any sensation of weight or heaviness, this magical Pessac can be enjoyed any time over the coming 30-40 years, and I have no doubt it will offer pleasure even beyond that.

This is forcefully rendered, with dark tar, espresso and chocolate up front, backed by dense layers of fig sauce, currant reduction and smoldering black tea leaves. There's dense flesh and great drive on the finish, which has serious grip. Best from 2016 through 2035. 6,000 cases made.

(Leognan (47% merlot, 47% cabernet sauvignon and 6% cabernet franc; a selection of 50% of the crop; 14.7% alcohol; pH 3.84; 78 IPT)) Deep ruby. Captivating aromas of strawberry and raspberry complicated by strong mineral and tobacco nuances. Remarkably graceful-almost weightless-in the mouth, with very nice depth to the pure red fruit, cedar and mineral flavors. The perfumed, very long finish features some assertive, youthful tannins that will require at least six or seven years of patience after release. This La Mission is closer in style to the La Chapelle than I recall in recent years (perhaps due to the similar blends), though a noticeable step up in precision and concentration. A great if understated wine, it's also completely different from the '05 La Mission, which contained a whopping 69% merlot.

Dark, cool and sleek, this is a very sophisticated wine with great structure and polished tannins that's just beginning to give its best. The cassis and blackberry fruit is brightest on the long finish and that suggests this has great aging potential. Drink or hold. (Horizontal Tasting, London, 2019)

The 2009 was not part of this vertical tasting, so I am repeating the tasting note published in issue #199 of The Wine Advocate from a tasting done in January, 2012. A candidate for the wine of the vintage, the 2009 La Mission-Haut-Brion stood out as one of the most exceptional young wines I had ever tasted from barrel, and its greatness has been confirmed in the bottle. A remarkable effort from the Dillon family, this is another large-scaled La Mission that tips the scales at 15% alcohol. A blend of equal parts Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot (47% of each) and the rest Cabernet Franc, it exhibits an opaque purple color as well as a magnificent bouquet of truffles, scorched earth, blackberry and blueberry liqueur, subtle smoke and spring flowers. The wine’s remarkable concentration offers up an unctuous/viscous texture, a skyscraper-like mouthfeel, sweet, sumptuous, nearly over-the-top flavors and massive density. Perhaps a once-in-a-lifetime La Mission-Haut-Brion, the 2009 will take its place alongside the many great wines made here since the early 1920s. The good news is that there are nearly 6,000 cases of the 2009. It should last for 50-75+ years. Given the wine’s unctuosity and sweetness of the tannin, I would have no problem drinking it in about 5-6 years. The final blend was 47% Merlot, 47% Cabernet Sauvignon and 6% Cabernet Franc.