The single vineyard 2023 Condrieu Clos Chanson brings a bigger, richer style while staying pure, focused, and incredibly elegant. Honeyed white flowers, crushed stone, toast, and tropical notes all shine here, and this beauty is full-bodied, round, lush, and layered on the palate. It's unquestionably in the top handful of Condrieu in the vintage. Drink bottles over the coming decade. Drink 2025-2035. Unquestionably, some of my favorite Condrieu and Saint Joseph continues to come from this tiny estate located just off route N7, south of Condrieu. The lineup includes three Condrieu cuvées, all made from Viognier planted on steep, granite-rich slopes. The base cuvée is always worth a case purchase, while Chéry and Clos Chanson come from older vines and bring more richness and complexity. The flagship Chéry comes from 50-year-old vines and is aged in a mix of stainless steel and oak, with 10-20% new wood. And while the Condrieu get most of the attention (and deservedly so), the Saint Joseph Blanc is terrific as well. As to the reds, the classic Saint Joseph comes from northern sites in the appellation, is destemmed, and aged in roughly 20% new 400-liter barrels. In top vintages, they also make a Les Grisières bottling from old vines, with a slightly longer élevage in 30% new oak. These are serious, age-worthy reds that can easily pass for Côte Rôtie in blind tastings. While André remains actively involved, he's now joined by his daughter Marie, who returned to the domaine in 2019 after working in California and Chile. As I've written many times, Rhône lovers need to have these wines in their cellars. For years, I would finish every Northern Rhône trip with lunch at Le Dôme in Paris and a bottle of Perret's Condrieu on the table.

The 2023 Condrieu Clos Chanson needs time to open up, gradually displaying classic peachy and apricot tones mingling with dried blossoms and lemon peel. Medium to full-bodied and refined, the 2023 lands with elegant persistence on the bright long finish.