Roederer Cristal 2004

Floral, citrus, and spice aromas and flavors take center stage in this filigreed, delicate Champagne, which is harmonious and well-defined, with a long finish of roasted nut and toast. Very dry. Drink now through 2028.

The 2004 Cristal has always been one of my favorites. It is all that again today. A Champagne of precision and nuance, the 2004 impresses with its linear cut and saline intensity. Readers will find a Cristal built on vibrancy more than power or opulence. In this tasting, the 2004 is an absolute stunner. These were the highest yields, even in Champagne. “We dropped half the crop on the Chardonnay and still picked 18,000 kilos (per hectare). That’s massive. We would have picked 25,000 otherwise.” I have always loved the 2004 for its purity. That quality is very much on display today. This is an especially fine bottle, the best I have tasted so far. Dosage is 8 grams per liter. Disgorged: 2011. Dec 2023

What a stunning nose of brioche, toasted baguette and smoke this almost 20-year-old champagne has! Deep base of chalky character wrapped in Amalfi lemon and with savory and salty notes that build in intensity at the long, structured finish. Still many years ahead of it. A cuvee of 53% pinot noir and 47% chardonnay. Tasted at the Cristal vertical tasting at the champagne house on July 6th, 2023. Drink or hold.

The 2004 Brut Cristal has put on quite a bit of weight since I first tasted it earlier this year. It is a powerful, structured Cristal layered with considerable fruit. Chardonnay seems to play the leading role in 2004, at least today. Cristal is often accessible young, but that is far from the case here. This is a serious, painfully young Cristal that will require considerable patience. Readers who are willing to spend some time with the wine today will find a super-impressive, complete Cristal. The 2004 Cristal is 60% Pinot Noir and 40% Chardonnay. This is Lot L033331E100008, disgorged January, 2010. Anticipated maturity: 2014-2034. My visit to these historic cellars earlier in the year was an eye-opening experience. I spent several hours with Chef de Caves Jean-Baptiste Lecaillon tasting through a wide range of 2009s vins claires. Readers may want to take a look at my feature on www.erobertparker.com for more on those wines. The visit was capped off by previews of the 2004 Cristal and the as-yet-unreleased Cristal Rose. Both were superb. Over the last six months the 2004 Cristal has come together beautifully and is shaping up to be a truly great, monumental Champagne. From top to bottom, this is an impressive set of wines. My only real criticism of Roederer is the estate’s insistence on using lot numbers that resemble missile launch codes in their complexity. Surely something simpler must be possible. (Antonio Galloni)