This has lush, fleshy layers of blackberry, fig and black currant confiture rumbling through, pushed by notes of charcoal and warm tobacco leaf. Ganache hints fill in on the finish. Bass-driven, with a serious knot of tannins that have yet to stretch out, but the core of fruit is way too serious to doubt. Best from 2020 through 2035.

The 2014 Petrus possesses remarkable density and power, with superb overall depth and an explosive sense of energy that is impossible to miss. Scents of violet, spice and rose petal open up in the glass before the fruit totally takes over. Broad and resonant throughout, Pétrus is one of the bigger, richer wines readers will come across in 2014. The harvest at Petrus took place between September 23 and October 4. Winemaker Olivier Berrouet gave the 2014 15 days on the skins, opting for what he describes as very gentle extractions. New oak is 50%.

The 2014 Petrus was tasted on the same morning as the 2014 Vieux-Château-Certan and though they are built from different blends, their personalities are quite similar. This is a succinct, not powerful, much more refined and discrete bouquet, gradually unfurling and revealing a subtle sea spray/marine element. The palate is again quite discrete at first and unfolds at a glacial pace. It is beautifully balanced with fine tannin, quite linear and structured, gently building towards a finish that has wonderful salinity (continuing that marine theme). Note: I actually returned to taste this several hours later, because it was so closed earlier on and it did finally open, which is atypical for this Pomerol. It is a wonderful Petrus, but one that will deserve bottle age and decanting.