With 12.5% alcohol, Moreau-Naudet’s 2023 Chablis 1er Cru Montée de Tonnerre is another success this year, soaring from the glass with a bouquet of beeswax, honeysuckle and crisp orchard fruit. Matured in a combination of old wood (30%) and tank, it’s medium to full-bodied, layered and concentrated yet with good tension and structured around racy acids, with ample chalky extract and a long, sapid finish. It derives from a parcel just next to Raveneau’s.