I was also able to taste a few older vintages. The 2021 Cornas Chapelle Saint-Pierre shows the fresher style of the vintage, yet it's no shrinking violet and brings beautiful darker, cassis-like fruit as well as textbook violet, incense, pepper, and damp stone-like nuances. It's beautifully balanced, medium-bodied, has ripe tannins, and a great finish. It will drink beautifully over the coming 10-15 years. Drink 2025-2040. Today, the talented Lionel Fraisse leads this terrific domaine, having taken over from Albéric Mazoyer in 2018, and he continues to make richly textured, incredibly impressive wines. Looking at the whites, the flagship Fleur de Crussol was first created in 1999 as a collaboration between Alain Voge and Lyon's sommelier Daniel Denis. It comes from some of the oldest vines in the appellation and a mix of both granite and limestone soils. It always shows its oak élevage right on release and benefits from bottle age. The Saint-Péray Cuvée Boisée was first released in 1984 but was renamed Cuvée Ongrie in 2015. It, too, is 100% Marsanne (from 50-year-old vines and slightly more clay soils) and is raised in a mix of 228- and 400-liter barrels, with roughly 15-20% being new today. As with the Fleur de Crussol, it sees lots of lees contact and benefits from bottle age. Lastly, the Saint-Péray Harmonie was first created in 2001, and it comes from a handful of sites and is raised all in concrete tanks. You can think of this as the entry-level white from the estate, and it has always had a fresh, textbook Saint-Péray style. Moving to the reds, all of the Cornas from this estate are beautiful wines. The Cornas Les Chailles was first created in 2003 and comes from a mix of the Combe, Les Saveaux, Cayret, Les Mazards, Chaillot, and Chapuzes lieux-dits, mostly on the lower slopes of the appellation. It's completely destemmed and raised in used oak. This can be thought of as the entry-level wine of the domaine, and while it drinks well right out of the gate, it normally benefits from a few years in the cellar. A newer cuvée, the Cornas Chapelle Saint Pierre, comes from higher elevation vines planted in 1999 (the lieu-dit is Saint-Pierre). These grapes previously went into the Vieilles Vignes release, yet due to their singular profile, the estate opted to create a new cuvée. This is mostly destemmed and aged all in used 228-liter barrels. The Cornas Vieilles Vignes comes from vines averaging 30 to 80 years in age and is mostly destemmed, with the élevage in a mix of larger barrels, about 10-20% being new. This is a classic, concentrated Cornas that offers loads of fruit and richness without going over the top. Most top vintages need 4-5 years of bottle age and have two decades of prime drinking. Lastly, and only in top vintages, they'll release the Cornas Vieilles Fontaines. First produced in 1988, the cuvée comes from a parcel of very old vines in the La Fontaine section of the Les Côtes lieu-dit. It's partially destemmed (around 70%) and is raised 24 months in 15-20% new French oak barrels (228-liter). It's always the most powerful, full-bodied, and opulent of the lineup and needs a solid 4-6 years to shed its youthful baby fat and round into a classic Cornas.

The 2021 Cornas Chapelle Saint-Pierre is the third rendition of this cuvée, following 2016 and 2018. Vinified from fully destemmed grapes grown on up to 35-year-old vines, it saw no new oak. Pronounced sour cherry and blackberry notes rise up from the glass. Wafts of pencil shavings and iodine add ferrous complexity. Medium-bodied at most, this is a polished and refreshing Cornas that won’t demand much time before coming around. Readers should note that no 2022 will be produced.