Produced entirely from Sauvignon Blanc, the 2021 Alteni Di Brassica was also tasted from barrel and takes on more intensity in its aromatics of guava, grapefruit, and wet stone. Medium-bodied, with some salinity, this is an accessible wine for those who would like an introduction into the white wines of the Gaja estate. It has a linear feel, with rounded fruit on the mid-palate and a fresh spine of acidity. It is due to be released in June 2023. The Gaja estate was founded in 1859, although it was Angelo Gaja, the fourth-generation winemaker of this Barbaresco estate, who made the innovations that would help shape the region as it is today. The entire family shares responsibilities across their estates. Great attention is paid to their practice of sustainable and regenerative farming. I met with Giovanni Gaja for this tasting at the estate in Barbaresco and also made a visit to the nearby region of the Alta Langa, only 16 kilometers away from the original estate. The latest major development for the estate in Piedmont is a brand new winery exclusively dedicated to their still white wine production in Alta Langa, designed by the Italian architect Giovanni Bo, who the family have worked with since 1982. The vineyards of Gaia & Rey and Brassica will remain the same, but fermentation and production will move to this location. There is greater biodiversity in Alta Langa compared to Barolo and Barbaresco, with 60% of the land being undeveloped land and hazelnut farms, and only 40% vineyards, compared to Barbaresco, which has 80% of the land under vine. For this reason, as well as the higher elevations, this area is seeing an influx of attention across the region. In 2015, they purchased 30 hectares of land that had been planted to hazelnut trees, at an average elevation of 650 meters, which they have converted to vineyard and indigenous plants of the area. The winery, which I toured in March of 2023, will be completed in time to begin production for this year’s harvest. Cascina Langa, the historical name for the property, has soils that are rich in sand and tuff, which they believe will be well-suited for adding structure for the white varietals of Chardonnay and Sauvignon Blanc. They also planted several other experimental vines to learn what will work well in the region.

The 2021 Alteni di Brassica is a gorgeous, steely white endowed with tons of varietal character. This is the first vintage that includes fruit from the Gaja family's new vineyards in Alta Langa. Lemon peel, sage, mint, dried herbs, chamomile and a touch of tropical fruit linger on the bright, saline finish. (AG)

Sliced pears and limes with some pear blossom aromas. Hints of fennel. Medium body. Pretty phenolics. Spicy and tangy finish. Some lemon zest. 60% in stainless with the rest in barrels. Uses some fruit from Alto Langa. Drink or hold.

The Gaja 2021 Langhe Alteni di Brassica is showing beautifully right now. This wine has seen a few tweaks over the years. In fact, the previous 2020 vintage already saw the introduction of some Alta Langa fruit (from the Gaja family's new vineyard and winery) in the blend. However, the base of the blend comes from old vines planted in 1983 in Serralunga d'Alba (in the Vigna Rionda). The Alta Langa fruit in this vintage measures 10%, but that number jumps to 30% in 2022. Giovanni Gaja tells me that "the raw part of the wine," or in other words, the citrusy side of the wine, is brought by the Alta Langa fruit. Winemaking and aging are an effort to protect the wine from oxygen, with racking only when necessary. The wine is matured on the lees in 60% stainless steel and 40% large oak botti. Sauvignon Blanc from Barbaresco tends to be delicate and floral, Sauvignon Blanc from Serralunga d'Alba is structured and Sauvignon Blanc from Alta Langa has the freshness and sharpness, says Giovanni Gaja.