Pure perfection, and reminding me slightly of the 1982, the 2009 Château Mouton Rothschild boasts an opaque ruby hue as well as an incredibly perfumed, sexy, seductive style in its ripe currant and cassis fruits as well as new saddle leather, spicy oak, smoke tobacco, and graphite-driven aromas and flavors. Complex, full-bodied, and beautifully concentrated, with sweet tannins, this masterpiece is already impossible to resist yet won't hit full maturity for another decade and will evolve for 50-60 years if well stored.

This will always be a great contrast to the dark power of the 2010, sporting lush layers of fig, boysenberry and blackberry confiture, carried by velvety tannins, flowing through a long, anise-, tobacco- and cocoa-fueled finish. Not shy on grip, but much rounder and plusher in feel. Hard to resist now, but there's absolutely no rush. (JM)

((a blend of 88 % cabernet sauvignon and 12 % merlot; 13.1% alcohol; pH 3.8; IPT) 78): Deep ruby. Flamboyant, superripe aromas of spicy blackcurrant, strawberry jam, smoky plum, vanilla, exotic wood and minerals scream Mouton (this would rate 100 points for its nose!). Rich, lush and powerful, with impressive fullness and volume to its ripe strawberry, raspberry, blackcurrant, sweet spice and cedar flavors. I picked up a hint of pomegranate on the end. The slightly chewy tannins are a bit less fine-grained tannins at this stage than I would have expected, but this is a monumental and extraordinarily long wine that must be among the four or five best ever made at this estate. (Le Petit Mouton de Mouton-Rothschild, which I rated 86-89, will give pleasure while your Mouton matures in the cellar. Its pretty nose is dominated by cabernet franc notes of violet, cocoa and white pepper, and its plum and blackberry flavors are complicated by an intriguing earthy note on the back. With moderate generosity of texture, it displays a slightly aggressive mouth feel.)

With a ton of ripe blackcurrant and some bitter chocolate, this is a rich and rather opulent wine that still retains a delightful freshness and has a long, positively dry finish. Drink or hold. (Horizontal Tasting, London, 2019)

The 2009 Mouton-Rothschild is as concentrated as the 2010, but it presents itself in a more consumer-friendly, seductive style. Opulently textured and full-bodied with gorgeous levels of crème de cassis, melted licorice, espresso roast and chocolate, it possesses high but sweet, velvety tannins, massive body, and fabulous purity as well as length. This could turn out to be a candidate for perfection in another 8-10 years. It will drink well for 30-50 years, but will always be much more approachable and charming than its 2010 counterpart.